'80 Vanagon Shifter Linkage

[Anonymous]

Hi (Please Help!), <br><br>I have a 1980 Vanagon L (Westy) with a manual shifter. It had been popping out of gear due to the bottom nylon ball on the shifter relay dropping off. I had the ball put back on as I couldn't find a new relay lever anywhere, replaced the rear shifter rod (now the tolerance seems right between it and the guide pin) but I still cannot get the linkage adjusted properly. Is there a trick(s) to this? I thought I had it but it keeps jamming in gear. The ball no longer drops off, but the rear rod seems to be slipping off of the ball and jamming up. Any advice would be helpful. I have also purchased (from Van-Again) a shifter rebuild kit that I'm hoping will fix the stiff shifting (when it works) but will it fix the gear jam problem? Thanks. <br>

[Anonymous]

ask ken a t van-again . he has a good forum on his web site . and he will able to tell u the step by step on the how to's .

[Anonymous]

I just bought a new relay lever for my 82 Westfalia from OE VeeDub.  p/n is 251 711 219 shift lever bracket.  This is the lever at the gearbox with the two nylon balls on it. Price was $36 US.  I bought some of the other shifter parts from them as well.  Bus Depot has the long boot for the rod and pin back there; the only ones who carry that any more.  Nobody has an accurate parts listing for the shifter parts and it is hard to get the right parts.  Just Kampers in the UK have the best illustrated parts breakdown on thier website.<br><br>The adjustment is really touchy. I made a wooden rigging block to get the proper dimension at the shift box.  Make sure the shift rod clamp is really tight, mine slipped and my wife couldn't get 1st and 2nd.<br><br>Dirk <br>1982 Westfalia

[Anonymous]

Thanks,<br><br>  Good info. My shift relay lever has been repaired but I ay order one just to have it and I definitely need a new bellows for the guide pin. My mechanic was able to get the shifter adjusted properly although he thinks some syncros are pretty worn as 2nd and 3rd gears are really tough. Once fixed, it worked fine until first 200 mile trip and blew the engine six blocks from home. Well, I don't think I blew the engine, more likely a ring(s) or a cracked piston. The engine filled with oil, fouling the plugs, etc. Luckily no oil pouring out of the engine. It is now in for a rebuild. I've ordered new cylinders/pistons/rings, gasket set and a clutch. Hopefully just get the heads reworked, valves lapped and be like brand new. Fingers crossed.....