Lets start using this forum

[MrLiMBO]

I don't have a real Split bus concern.  Mine is running well. I love it. I just hate to see that no one has made a post here.  So I'm posting.  

There is one thing, I would like to find someone to rebuild my King Pins. I don't have to knowledge on how to do it.   I did find one guy, but he sells rebuild king pins that are lowered.  I'm not sure I want to do that just yet.

[Bradleyvw]

I think your bus would look hot lowered.
If the NEATO club comes our way, would they be on our message board? That would give it some activity.

[MrLiMBO]

I'm not totally opposed to lowering my bus. Maybe an inch or two, nothing drastic.  I do have some Porsche Fuch knock offs that I'm going to get painted and installed on the bus.  Then it will look really good.  Maybe I'll add some street glow and a thumpin stereo. =)

[Vanagonjr]

Street glow  - yes
 thumpin; - no

Wish I had a split...and a bay....and a beetle....and a thing....and a syncro....

[prez]

Lowering is not the key-One must come to find what they want, ---and have it.   B. Bob was a preacher of  "original design."  Messing with tortion bars gets nasty.   That's simply VW life.   We don't wanna "bottom out" either.    Jon

[Bradleyvw]

I think splits look sweet lowered and do plan on "slamming" my 66 Singlecab some day.

[MrLiMBO]

I only believe in lowering with Spindles, not tortion bar adjustments.  If I lowered the back, it would be by removing the reduction boxes, but I think thats a bit too low for me.  I still have to tow this behind my motorhome.  

The main reason I bought this bus, beside it was cheap and rust free, is it was a blank slate.  I can do what I want with it.  I'm not destroying a perfect camper or Standard.    I'm doing what I call a resto-Custom.  Updates to make it more comfortable using mostly VW parts.  No cutting or add ons that I can't remove and return the bus to mostly stock.

[Vanagonjr]

I'm a big fan of resto custom on Beetles. There were two great ones at Transporterfest- a chocolate brown one & a gray one that were so sweet.

For a split or bay, I think a set of wheels, nice paint, set of vintage fog lights is all one needs. But as long as everything is bolt on- go for what you like.
JR

[MrLiMBO]

I'm a big fan of resto custom on Beetles. There were two great ones at Transporterfest- a chocolate brown one & a gray one that were so sweet.

For a split or bay, I think a set of wheels, nice paint, set of vintage fog lights is all one needs. But as long as everything is bolt on- go for what you like.
JR

I'm in agreement with that.  I've been looking for a set of 'vintage' looking fog lights.  I missed a set on eBay.  I'll find them yet.

I'm thinking of upgrading to disc brakes and 2.0L Type 4 engine.  I've got the book for converting a Type 4 to a Type 1 cooling system.  Perhaps a waterboxer someday.  I'd love to do an IRS conversion.  I also heard you could put a 68-70 front beam in the 67. Getting rid of the king pins might be nice.  Easier to convert to discs if I do that.

[Vanagonjr]

I hear you on the disks. Type 4 with type 1 cooling, never heard of that interesting! I loved rebuilding my type 4.

I seen air cooled versions of the water boxer-you should check that out and see if there is much machine shop time ($) involved.

Leaky wasser boxers come cheap!

Back to disks, I really go for that, drum brake cars scare me, although when I drove Stan's Mango split I didn't find it too bad.

John

[MrLiMBO]

Some would argue that Drum brakes stop better in a short hard brake. They have more brake material contacting the drum surface compared with a disk brake.  The advantage of disc brakes is two fold.  Better cooling for long braking and no periodic adjusting necessary.

If you've experienced brake fade, you know its scary. It still happens in disc brakes. Just not as fast a drums can.

Imagine what it was like in the old days when all they had was drum brakes that were cable activated. Course cars didn't go that fast then.

[Stanagon]

Jimbo,

Using a bay beam in a split makes the front sit up too high and the wheels sit out too wide. Don't do it, unless you also narrow the beam slightly and use drop spindles.

I think lowering a bus is stupid. They have great ground clearance and a pretty comfortable ride at stock height. Why f' that up, spending more money and making the bus ultimately worth less, in my opinion.

The drum brakes in a split bus can work pretty well if you aren't using old worn out components and they are properly adjusted. Remember the fronts have dual wheel cylinders which have good stopping power, in my experience.

[MrLiMBO]

I'm happy with the drum brakes on my bus. Most if it is brand new. Wheel cylinders, hoses and rear shoes, all new.  The front shoes are like new.  The master is the only thing I haven't touched.  It stops on a dime- really.  I keep the shoes adjusted so it has a real tight pedal.  

I learned the hardway 20 years ago about not doing regular brake maintenance.

[St.Bus]

so far my only split window bus concern is that i may never get one!..