Honing Cylinders?

[Anonymous]

Ok...I have the 2.1 out of my 90 Carat. Its in the garage and dismantled. The reason; the head gasket sealing the coolant failed. I decided to remove the cylinders and pistons so I could clean, inspect, and install bottom Oring. I have broken one oil ring during this process so fine, I will get new rings.  Now I am seeing mention of honing if installing new rings. I did a quick check on ring/land gap and I think I am good. The cylinders look pretty good. I guess the thing to do is get them measured for out of round.<br>  NOW for my questions: Should the cylinders always be honed with NEW rings installed? Also, are the new rings I buy going to be oversized? Do I need to specify oversized?<br>   Also, I am insane for going through this right?<br>Thanks for any info!

[cc6344454]

Don't get too nervous, you are doing OK.  You don't have to take the block anywhere to get them measured for out-of-round. There is a special micrometer meant for measuring a inside diameter such as a cylinder.  It is spring loaded, once you set it to the approximate size of the cylinder, you spin it around and see if the dial swings more than a few thousands. In your case, I doubt that would be a problem.  <br>In addition, any general engine spec should tell you what your  maximum cylinder diameter would have to be before getting oversized rings.  I bet you are just fine.<br>Doing a good visual inspection ought to tell you if you need honing such as gouges and scratches. Some auto parts stores let you rent a cylinder honer. It attaches to your drill. You run it up and down your cylinders a few times. It is cheap, and I would do it anyway. <br>Good Luck<br>Phil

[Anonymous]

OK!...I have decided that with new rings, old cylinders should be honed, the main reason is to prepare the cly so the rings will seat well. Rather than making them smoother,(the cylinders)I am roughing them up some for the rings to smooth off?  Anyone care to comment?<br>   Next question; Now that I have cleaned up my heads, I can see they are cracked between the valve seats. On three of four of these areas, I can see the crack continuing down the ports maybe a quarter inch.  The Bentley says cracks .019" are acceptable. I would say I have at least one fatter than that. The thing ran great before the coolant started leaking out. I wonder how long I can run with these heads? I wonder...new heads? Take a shot with the old ones?...Yes I am sure I am insane now....

[Red Baron]

Always Always Always hone cylinders with new rings.  Unless you get new oversized pistons, (the only way to do that is if you had a machine shop bore them out) the rings will be standard size.  If you have some doubt about honing the cylinders properly, have them done by a pro.  A good garage will have the tools to do it right.  Or you could contact Boston Engine and ask Bob if he would do the job for you. <br><br>Heads are cracked?  Forget it, their junk. Don't fool around, get new ones.  Any VW supplier should be able to get you new ones.  Boston Bob can help you with the heads too.  Good luck.

[Anonymous]

Thanks, I have new rings installed and the pistons in honed cylinders sitting on my kitchen table. I also have new heads and rebuilt rods from Bob.<br><br>Last night I mixed up the famous JB Weld and filled the worst spot on my case. I didn't want to, but the lower #3 corner was in bad shape. I figured I better fill it.<br><br>I hope to assemble the rods/piston/cyl this weekend.<br><br>Any final advice on the sealant used on the rubber gasket? I have the stuff that came with the gasket kit and I aso have a tube of Permatex Black High Temp Silicon. The latter being recomended by a local as he thinks the OEM stuff gets hard. That seemed to be the case when I first took the heads off. Also my gaskets actually seemed to be melting on the inside. I could push my thumb nail right through. Is that normal?<br><br>OK, I am putting this thing together for better or worse! Maybe I can even get it running next month.

[Red Baron]

I usually use the black stuff with the gasket set. At the dealership, they used to use Hylomar univerasal blue. (we still have some in the cabinet at the shop).  Its been a long time since we did one at the shop. A few other people have recommeded Hylomar as well.  I'd ask Boston Bob. For the case halves, I know he also recommeneds a product called Rectorseal.  You want #5. Its usually available at good plumbing supply stores.  Most of the others go on dry.  I sometimes use Hi-Tack or Indian Head sealer.    Good luck.<br><br>PS: When  you assemble the oil pump, fill it with vasoline. It will help create suction at the oil pick up. Its petroluim based, not to worry.  Also, I usally assemble the rod, main and cam bearings with STP.  There is this red super thick stuff for the cam lobes. I can't remember the name if just now.  Don't forget to let that engine crank a while before actually firing it up.  Even after the pressure light goes out. Lets the oil get to all the area of the engine before you start putting real pressure on the engine.