Vanagon 2.1 Coolant Change Help!

[Anonymous]

Hi
My 1990 2.1 vanagons coolant requires replacement.
My workshop manuel has left me a little confused with regards draining of old coolant. (cold)
As I intend to DIY my understanding is as follows:
-open coolant expansion tank cap
-drain coolant at drain plug on each cylinder head
Q .  Is this all I need to do here ?

I thought I may have to disconnect hose at bottom of radiator(vehicle front) ! yes/no....not sure.
I also intend to drain old coolant while the vehicle is level.....is this ok?
I think I will be ok with refilling as the workshop manuel is straight forward here.
Any help appreciated
ajp3830

[beebrew]

If memory serves me correctly that should do it except for elevating the front end around 1.5 feet. I think the head drains are the lowest point. The hoses can be left on, as they should all drain back with the front end up. It is also necessary to elevate the front to re-fill it. This part is a pain, as you need to run the motor higher than idle speed while filling it. This continues until the engine is hot enough for the thermostat to open so all the air is purged. This is done with the radiator vent open until fluid comes out. It really takes two people not to make a mess. At least that is how I remember it. Also use proper fluid made for VW's. The head corrosion problem is supposedly worse with regular fluid. I don't know, but I would not take a chance. Hope this helps.
Guy

[MrLiMBO]

To drain the coolant completely.  Well, as completely as possible, you'll need to pull the covers off the bottom of the engine that protect the push rods and remove the 6MM allen  wrench sized bolts that are between each cylinder on each side.  

I usually pull the lower hose off the radiator as well.  In fact, when I do a flush and fill, I usually pull the radiator. Only because I don't want to get soaked laying on my back putting a garden hose in the radiator. I pull most of the hoses I can and flush them with a garden hose.  Make sure you open all the heater valves when you do it.  

If you don't want to get that involved,  I've had good luck with those 10 minute flush bottles you can get at NAPA or CarQuest.  Even the prestone stuff at wally world works.  Follow the directions and you should have decent results.

Bleeding isn't too hard. Just a little time consuming. Put the front of the bus up a little and open the bleed screw at the top right of the radiator.  After about 10 minutes or so or once you get the coolant as full as it can and no more air comes out of the bleeder screw (you will need to close it and open it will bleeding), top off the overflow tank (behind the license plate) as much as possible and take it for a ride.  I usually leave off the grill and find a nice hill and park facing up, leave it running and loosen the bleed screw again.  Once that is done, the radiator cap should do the rest.  So long as the cap is working.  There shouldn't be any air in the coolant tank with the radiator cap. Monitor the overflow tank for a couple of days. It will go up and down just make sure it doesn't drop below minimum  and you should be good to go.  If all goes well, you should be done once you've bled the system out.

[Vanagonjr]

Jim,

Do you think it is worth replacing the radiator cap as a maintenance item?   Is there any good test for the cap?

[MrLiMBO]

Jim,

Do you think it is worth replacing the radiator cap as a maintenance item?   Is there any good test for the cap?

It is possible to test it and make sure its working.  You'll need a pressure testing kit and an adapter.  Though, the Stant kit doesn't have the adapter.  It should relieve pressure somewhere between 13 and 17 LBs.   Of course they are cheap enough to just replace it.
You'll know its working when the coolant tank behind the license plate goes up and down with the temp of the engine.  It will be full when hot and down when cold.